Many years have passed since that hunt, but it is still in my memory. I decided to share my memories about it. 2006 year. Kyrgyzstan. It took us 9 hours’ drive from the airport to the hunting lands. The climbing on 3500 masl is difficult for each person. The only difference is how the physiology of definite man perceives the change in the place of your stay? It was not a problem for me at that time to rise from the plateau to the mountains. I always accompanied hunters for ibexes and Marco Polo sheep and my body was used to significant differences and changes in the oxygen composition of the air. The same heights in Kyrgyzstan are handled much easily than in Pamir. I don’t know why it's so but it’s true according my experience.
It’s a pleasure to arrive to the place and to accommodate in the warm cabins of the field camp, no matter they are not so comfortable as the hotel but there is a canteen, a bed and that's enough. Our hospitable hosts cooked tasty dinner while waited for us. The outfitter introduced me the guides with whom I’d go to the mountains next day. We discussed the plan while eating. We should stay few days in the field camp and then to ascend to the highest peaks where ibexes stuck at that time.
It was October, the rut season had just begun. From the one side it was good because the males became more active but from the other not so. The adult males, which prefer to keep separate in all other periods, join the herds of females and the young. It’s more difficult to approach the herd to the shooting distance when the surroundings are monitored by both males and females. Chances to make it reduce in several times. But we are the hunters and know all nuances of animal’s behavior and always try to win in this competition.
The temperature on the lounge height was not really cold but it dropped to -10-15 C at each night. The guides warned me that it’d be even lower when we would climb. We know the words of famous song “nature doesn't have bad weather” and I can add but you need to choose the right clothes. I’m used to cold in the mountains. Fortunately, I had warm thermal underwear and clothes which could protect me from low temperatures. But my sleeping bad wasn’t so good. It wasn’t bad by its parameters. I bought it on VVC. The qualifil insulation was designed for temperatures up to-15 C. Qualifil is a synthetic material, permeated with seven air channels, what provides poor thermal conductivity. It helps to keep warm inside the sleeping bag. The scientists tried to use the idea of fluff filler for sleeping bags. They did it partially. But there is nothing absolutely perfect in this world.
That’s why all temperatures below -15 will be able a problem for my health and physical conditions. I could hardly expect that there were -25C at night in Kyrgyzstan in the mountains in October. The only chance was to get the trophy as soon as possible and to hope that my thermal underwear will protect me if it was cold. Next morning after a hearty breakfast we left the camp. Our group consisted on two guides Almaz, Alik and me. Almaz was of medium height, with a strong build. He was always smiling and could speak Russian, not like Alik, it allowed me to hope that we’d talk a lot while hiking in the mountains. Alik was of medium height too but younger and skinny but he looked strong. They both were good in handy with horses and helped me with harness when it was necessary. It was not an easy matter to harness a horse in such cold. The locals didn’t take care about harness with stirrups, bits and girths and sometimes I couldn’t even fasten the girth belt. The harness wets from the horse sweat during a day, then freezes till morning that’s why it's hard even to straighten it. . I don't know why but the locals in Kyrgyzstan often use the only girth and it makes problems in the mountains. Down, up, and so on all day. The saddle begins to move back and forth, and you feel uncomfortable. You feel as if you can fall back while climbing or to fly over the horse's head forward while riding down. It can be the reason of chafes and the horse can be out of commission because of the serious damages, scuff marks on its back. You should always control and pull up the girth. I should say how my friends from Altai prepare their horses for long expeditions, to compare both ways. Each horse has three girths, a breastplate and a tailpiece. And leather archimakis on both sides. You feel like driving in a car when riding such horse. But I was in Kyrgyzstan. And had no choice. The only way was to adjust to the circumstances. We were going. We rode about three hours and arrived to the field camp. It was located on the height 4000m. There was the only dugout with the stove inside. There was a huge shortage of firewood there, and they used litter or dung for the stove. Could you imagine how warm was there. But it was better than nothing. It’s much better than to sleep on the open air under the sky I know what I talk about. We decided to leave their bags, to have lunch and to go exploring. The local caretaker was already there. He’d keep our things in order and safe. It took us two hours more to reach the place where we were going to hunt. We examined the mountain slopes trying to detect the trophy size ibexes. But there were none of them. Even the females didn't show up. It happens in the mountains. It seams that there are not animals in a definite place and you have to go further. You leave the place but suddenly turn back and see the herd. The animals are real Profi in the art of camouflage and use the terrain in the best way. It was getting dark and we should go back to the camp. We still had enough time to get the trophy. After coming back, we ate dinner and went to sleep. Next morning, we all got up early, had breakfast, harnessed the horses though it was really cold and moved. A beautiful sunrise in the mountains always impresses with a variety of colors. You are the viewer in the theater who seats in the first row and enjoy the performance put on by Nature. You have enough time to admire the show because doesn’t need to waste time to drive the horse. It obediently follows the one in front. The sun gilds the mountains peaks, which shine by virgin white and shimmer in like expensive diamond crystals. But you mustn't forget about the sun and to take care about your face and lips. It's easy to burn under its deceptive rays. You should put on the protective lotion and a lipstick. I know what sunburn is from my own experience.
Soon the legs begin to catch the frost from a stationary position in the saddle. You should make stops to dismount and make physical exercises not to get cold and to freeze legs. Next two hours we monitored the surroundings which were the favorite places for ibexes, as my guides assured me. We noticed the group of females with babies and several young males. None of the adult males were seen at that day. We turned back and went to the camp. One of the guides noticed three horse’s tracks that came to the mountains from the side where we had already been before. The caretaker said that three guy who said that they were from the environmental control passed near the camp not long ago. They were going to account the number of ibexes as they said to Beshen. We could hardly imagine at that time what it would mean.
We all were tired and dreamed about hot dinner and the warm sleeping bag. I was happy even to eat Doshirak though I hated it in my ordinary life and didn’t eat. But Beshed cooked meat which we took with us and that dish was delicious. I turned to the remedy I had tried not once, to warm faster. You should need to mix black and red pepper in a small amount of vodka and drink it in one gulp. The effect comes very quickly. You shouldn't abuse this tool not to burn the mucosa of the digestive tract. I warned the other fellows about it when Beshen liked it and wanted to take some more shots. Thus, we warmed and went to sleep. Next morning, we left the camp before the sunrise. Once again we found the tracks of mentioned riders when moving close to the hunting area. They led to the small gorge. Our path ran in the same direction. We entered the gorge for 500-700 meters and met those accountants. The first thing we saw was three butchered bodies of the ibexes. Those animals had been accounted already. The hunting lands where that hunt was organized were the private one and all hunts there had to be agreed by the owner. We were sure that they did not notify him about “that accounting”. The guides asked me to make pictures of that crimes to prove their words and use photos as physical evidence. I took on the camera and made several shots. Almaz said that probably he knew who could make it and asked me to make pictures of their faces if we met them in the hunting lands. Suddenly we heard several shots. It was evident that several more ibexes had been accounted. Almaz knew the place from where they fired. We leaped into our saddles and rode to where the shooting was taking place. It took us 30-40 minutes.
Almaz was right. Soon we met those poachers. In the East, it is not customary to swear and clarify relations in raised tones or to fight. They began to talk with those guys. I used the situation and made their photos but tried to do it discreetly as if I was making pictures of nature. Later I gave those photos to my friends, the owners of the hunting lands. They called me and told that fired those poachers and brought them to justice. Thus, we helped to identify violations and bring to justice poachers who worked in the government agencies. Telling the truth, it didn't make it any easier for us at the time. They spoiled one more hunting day. We came back without a trophy.
The days passed by and there wasn’t any chance to find the male and approach the shooting distance. I began to doubt in the success of our operation. The time limits didn’t allow me to stay there longer but the hunt hadn’t started already. Next hunting day we rode to the mountains with a hope to find ibexes. The frost grew stronger at night and it was harder and harder to get in the saddle in the morning. In that day the guides suggested me one more test that would safe my strength as they thought. They offered to go to the mountains and to stay there until we would get a result. We took all things we needed, including sleeping bags, mats and all warm clothes which I had. Telling the truth, I’m always ready for any challenges in any conditions. But that time I doubted the adequacy of the efforts we did to capture the ibex. My equipment was not designed for such conditions in the mountains. We couldn’t make fire there because of the lack of firewood. They knew nothing about portable burners at that time in Kyrgyzstan. The prospects were not very bright. We were not used to retreat and collected everything, we would need, we loaded the bags and to meet new challenges.
It took us an hour to reach the place where we were yesterday but then we turned from the well-trodden path and moved to the left through the gorge to climb the rocky mountains. In an hour we ran into a very steep climb. I looked up questioningly but Almaz said that there was not any other way to go the place where we were going. I asked him, did he climb in that place before? He answered yes, a couple of times and promised trophy size males there. Their favorite place was a plateau surrounded by gorges from all sides. They prefer that place because it's visible from all sides and no humans, not predators can come close being invisible. Nice. What must be must! But how should we bring it to life? It became clear from the first steps that danger is waiting for us at every step. We should go by the narrow path with the abyss from one side and the rock from the other. I put my shoulder against the rock often, and horses were constantly touching the stone by the harness. We dismounted and were rising by foot. The altitude was more than 4000 masl. I felt the first symptoms of the mountain sickness. You don’t feel it when seat in the saddle and don’t move but as soon as you go with the load, you immediately understand what you're dealing with. The path in some parts had been so rough that it looked as if it drained to different sides when I stepped on it. It was hard even to make a step there. But we had no choice. Thanks to my Meindl boots which clung to the rocks plus I helped myself by hands, we moved forward slowly. The horses followed us. It was much easier for them. They are used to such height; the load wasn’t heavy and no riders. We were riding about an hour including several stops to take breath before the next march throw. At last we reached the plateau. Only peaks of inaccessible mountains were higher than we were but we had no need to climb them. We could take a breath and regroup for the next part of the way. One more gulp of tea and step forward. Later we made one more stop and my guides began to watch the surroundings. Almaz pointed to the ridge where beautiful males stood. The group consisted of females and trophy size males. It was the place, my guides had high hopes. And they were right.
But to see the trophy didn’t mean to get it. The guys knew how the ibexes moved and expected to intercept them when the animals would go to have rest. We left horses behind the rock, invisible for ibexes. Our group came close to the edge where we could see the valley, spread between two ridges. Just imagine, how surprised we were when the group of five wolves run out from behind the edge. We stood in confusion and didn’t know what to do. The wolf is the predator that has to be destroyed in the first turn. But if we made a single shot, we would forget about ibex hunting in that area. The guides warned me about it. I had to submit to advice and common sense and to restrain my hunting excitement. If I didn’t I would spoil all efforts of the last days including the last dangerous rising. I just managed to take the camera and made several beautiful shots of those predators. It happened that not only poachers - predators but the wolves too dwelled there. That could be the explanation why we didn’t see goats before. The herd stood on the place and we got on the horses and rode, hiding behind the ridges, to the area where the ibexes were. We arrived to the place from where should try to approach the group. The guides uploaded the horses to give them rest. Alik and I stayed to set the bivouac while Almaz ran to look on the goats and to define the plan of hunting.
We got out some food and tried to chew it that was difficult, everything was frozen. Tea in out thermoses wasn't hot but still warm. But even warm tea was very welcome. The frost grew stronger and we could hardly bear such low temperatures without warm gloves. We thought that it was -15C. But we didn’t know the truth. It was difficult to say. Almaz came soon. The ibexes were on the place and next morning we’d try to get the trophy. Oh dreams...,- I thought at that moment. And came to sleep. There were several hollows near the rock, where we stopped, we put there our mats and sleeping bags. It didn't take much time. But it was comfortable to sleep. The most important was that you needn't think that you’d roll down by the slope because the cavities protected us from it. We slept like in cradles. I worried about temperature only. How cold would it be at night? I’m used to sleep in the pants or to put on the thermal underwear if it's cold. It helps me to restore my strength. But it was too cold and was getting even colder. I put on the sweater and lay down in the sleeping bag. And put the upper clothes near me. It’s not comfortable to get up in the morning when you've slept in the clothes that has been on you the whole day before. You are more cold than warm when put on the upper clothes after the sleep. I even put my boots close to the sleeping bag to prevent them from being frozen. Thus, we slept under the cover of deep and starry sky. I woke at night when guys were covering me by heavy blanket. It was the horse’s cover or something like that. After it, I warmed and fall into a deep sleep. But the temperature outside dropped even more. I was breathing the frosty mountain air. The temperature was already over – 20. It seemed as we were on the North pole at all. The sharp pain in the throat woke me up. A lump the size of a plum popped out in my throat on the left side. It was an inflamed lymph node. The only thought flashed in my mind. “It's the end of your mountain hunts! You’ll come back to the camp in the morning without the trophy”. I tried to banish those thoughts and still hoped to get the trophy of ibex.
The mountain sunrise was beautiful. I saw them mane times but they all are different and I can’t compare them with nothing else on the earth. We began to crawled out from our sleeping bags and to share how we spent that night. I told guys about the lump in the throuat but said that was going to hunt in any case. They gave me a mysterious look. Probably they thought that I was ready to surrender. I put on the frozen clothes and boots while they discussed something on their language. It was a problem. I didn’t know how to warm feet in such situation. I did some physical exercises to dispersed the blood through the body, but feet.. It didn’t help to them. There was nothing to do. We tried to eat something that we could chew. And Almaz suggested the plan. They both would try to direct the herd to the definite side. I should seat and wait the animals in the definite place. They knew the animal’s paths and were sure that ibexes would cross the place where I would wait. Fortunately, that place wasn't far from our bivouac. I understood where I should be and was there in twenty minutes. I dreamed about such walk because hoped my feet would warm. And so it happened but not full. There was nothing to do. I found the comfortable place and sat. The place, between the huge cliff from the right and a small ridge from the left, had a great view. I was invisible from all sides. But could see on 1-1,5 km. There was just one disadvantage. It was very cold. I couldn't seat for a long without moving. There was a huge mountain cup, surrounded by the rocky ridges, in front of me. The sun was rising from the left and its rays shined on the snowy slopes of the ridge that was from the right. The guides told me that animals would go by that ridge. I got out my SAKO 75, cal. 300 WinMag and prepared to wait. It’s not a problem for a real hunter to wait. Those people can spend hours waiting in any climate conditions. Who were the snipers in the war? Almost all snipers before the war were hunters. Why? Because they had been already trained for the war, they could wait for the chance to make the only but the accurate shot. I prepared to spend time there waiting for a chance to get the trophy.
Time passed. It'd been an hour or more. There was not any sign of ibexes. I’d got cold and a light tremor passed through the whole body from time to time. At last I noticed first ones on the ridge. One, two, three... About twenty animals had appeared. I could see all the group through the binoculars. But none of them had trophy size. The herd moved slowly to my side. In twenty minutes, the goats were in the gorge near me. I saw females with babies and young males about 2-3 years old. It was not necessary to talk about their trophy characteristics. Their path came through the place where I was and soon they all were in 5-7 from me. Even the females that led the group didn't notice me. I held my breath and watched the animals go. I could even see the lashes on their eyes. It was fascinating though I didn't fire. Not only shot gives pleasure. It was a rare luck to see those animals in their habitat. This was a great pleasure. My hunting principle - to come as close to the animal as it was possible worked well. I wasn’t upset that didn't get the trophy. I was so close to those careful animals, moreover I watched wolves from 70-100 m before. But I couldn’t unnoticed for long. One of the ibexes had noticed me or smelled and the herd took off abruptly and ran down the slope, kicking up a huge column of dust. I watched them go and realized that I could move to keep warm.
Then I saw Almaz who appeared on the ridge and gave a sign to go back. Being more pleased than upset I went back to our place and hoped to warm while walking. When we gathered Almaz explained what had happened. There were two big males in the group. But they stayed separated from the herd. When the group went by the usual route those two moved by different way. That’s why I didn’t see them. There was nothing to do. I got used to the idea of a failed hunt. We began to pack bags. It was time to go back. The horses were hobbled but managed to go from the place where we left them. Probably they were looking for food or just walking. Almaz ran to look for them.
Alik decided to examine the ridge for the last time and went somewhere. He didn’t go two hundred meters as turned back and waved me, then pointed to the gorge where we saw ibexes. I understood that he detected something. Caught the carbine and ran to him. The tremor and a lump in the throat still bothered me. But nobody would pay attention to such things when there was a chance to get the trophy. I moved by the slope trying to be invisible. Alik said about two males in the gorge. When I asked him how far, he replied far. But I resolved to use that chance. My guides said that they have one more extra licenses that I can use. If I was lucky, I’d get two ibexes. Alike led me to the place from where I could shoot. “How far to the ibexes?”- I asked him once again. “Far!”- he answered. I thought for a moment and took the initiative. Got out the rangefinder and crawled on the ridge. Then aimed it to one of the animals and pushed the button. It showed 204 meters. Ok. Now I knew what meant far for Alik. Not many hunters could shoot more than 300 meters at that time. The locals had smooth barrel rifles and had to approach animals not less than 70 meters to make the accurate shot.
But it was not the distance for me. I always tested my guns on those distances. I entered the cartridge, took the safety off and put the soft carbine's cover on the stones which I always took with me and crawled to the edge of the ridge and set the carbine. I like that cover because it protects the carbine and optics from the dust and mud and allows to regulate the carbine position without any uncomfortable positions. I took the comfortable position to shoot. Then set the multiplicity to "8" and only then could I see the animals. There were two adult males but not record sizes. They were not old as I thought at that moment. The value of the trophy doesn’t correlate with its size but with the way you go to get it. Well, the moment of truth has arrived. To get or not to get the trophy. The male was on the shooting distance. I caught its neck in the crosshairs and pushed the trigger smoothly. The shot. The echo of the shot sounded long in the silence of the gorge. The ibex fell down and rolled down by the stone scree. The another one stood and watched how its brother was rolling down and turned its head trying to find the source of the danger.
I heard the cheers of my guide and how he insisted I’d shoot the second one. I reloaded the carbine and aimed it to the neck of the second one. The next shot and the second ibex repeated the same way. The powerful cartridge and a good bullet CDP 10,7gr, produced by RWS for Blaser made their work. Alik I didn't hold back his emotions, hugged me and congratulated. He couldn’t believe that I got two ibexes from such distance by two shots only. Telling the truth, I didn’t know who was more happy Alik or me. I guessed he was happy because they’d have enough meat. I felt drained because of tiredness, chill and a lump in the throat. I was just knocked out. And wanted to be somewhere near the fireplace in the armchair. I could barely make it to the bivouac. Soon we met Almaz who had found horses. He was smiling. We packed everything we had and began to descend to the taken ibexes. I’d warmed while we were going down thanks to the sun and temperature that was higher there.
I realized that I got those trophies only when we came to them and I touched their horns. It wasn't all in vain! But it was too early to relax. After a short photo session, we butchered the goats and to load meat. It took us two hours and only then we could go back. The way home is always shorter but it was late evening when we reached the dugout. One more night in the field. But next day the very old but reliable UAZ delivered us to the Main lodge. At last I took a hot shower, ate tasty dinner and slept in the bed. The chills and swelling were gone. Only unforgettable memories and burned face stayed. Fourteen years has come from that time but I still remember that hunting, what obstacles I have overcome to get that worthy trophies.
P.S. One more plus of that hunting was that we managed to justice those poachers and my pictures played not the last role in it. Dmitry Vstovsky.
01.04.2021